What are Natural Wines?
Natural wines? What could be more natural than wine? It starts off as a bunch of grapes, then the grapes are pressed and the juice is fermented. Simple.
Well, not quite. The grapes may be grown organically, which is great, but it’s what happens during the winemaking process that makes the drink natural. From the picking to the bottling, everything must be done with as little artificial intervention as possible.
Organic grapes
So, no pesticides or fertilizers in the vineyard means that the wine is organic, but this is just the start of producing a natural wine. Organic winemakers can produce organic grapes, but this doesn’t prevent them from doing or adding anything they fancy during the winemaking. This isn’t to say that every wine producer does this – many bulk wineries in the US, California in particular, are turning to natural methods once the picking is done.
What does make a wine natural, then?
Once the grapes have been grown (organically) and crushed, ready for fermentation, there must be the absolute minimum of additive use and the minimum of modern, technological methods. Additives could include sugar, powdered tannins or acidifying compounds. Methods and machinery could include micro-oxygenation to speed up the aging process or lab-grown yeasts.
In short, to qualify as a natural wine by most people’s reckoning, the wine must have these features at a minimum:
- no artificial herbicides – competitor plants must be dug or plowed out;
- no synthetic compounds or molecules found in the vines and grapes;
- the yeast used must be native to the region the wine is being grown in;
- the grapes must be hand-picked, with no rough treatment or micro-oxygenation;
- no addition of sugar after fermentation to increase the alcohol content;
- the wine should have no (or hardly any) filtering, and
- no (or hardly any) sulfites.
Why go back to old-fashioned ways?
There’s nothing wrong with using modern methods to produce wine, in fact they produce excellent results. However, by using similar methods and compounds with every varietal, there’s the risk that wines will all become a bit samey. By removing all artificial interference (however well-meant), the true nature of the terroir can shine through.
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Champagne is Not the Only Fizz
Who doesn’t love Champagne? Not only is it often the signal of a great time, or a significant celebration, but it goes down so well, bubbles and all.
We’d all love to drink it every day, but most of us don’t have that sort of budget – a decent starter (as it were) Champagne is around $45 and so we need to rein the spending in somewhat. The good news is that Champers (as the Brits have it) isn’t the only fizz in town and many of the alternatives have all the bubbles with a cheaper price tag.
Look elsewhere in France
Champagne is the region name for the drink, not the drink itself, so if you look for sparkling wines made in other regions in France, you’ll do just fine. A lot of these wines use the same grape and the same method, but they just have a slightly different terroir. No biggie. Just look for a Mousseux or a Crémant and you’ll be fine.
Look elsewhere in Europe
Almost all of us have heard of Cava, the Spanish sparkling wine. There are many popular varieties and most will cost less than $15.00 or $20.00. There’s also Espumoso, a lesser-known fizz, and if you’re lucky enough to find some, give it a whirl.
You’d hardly associate Germany and Austria with bubbly, as we tend to think of sweet whites here, but both nations do a fine line in Sekt. Germany, in fact, has the highest annual consumption of fizz in the world, at five litres per head!
Then of course there’s Prosecco
Italy’s Prosecco has gained a huge following in recent years, and small wonder, as it’s amazing. However, if you’re looking for an alternative to Champagne and you’re a purist (or you’re entertaining one), then you should be aware that this wine, alongside its compatriot Asti Spumante, is made by the Charmat method rather than the classic method. If you need to up your game, opt for a Franciacorta instead.
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New Year, New Habits
We’re creatures of habit, it has to be said. Apparently, the average American household eats, on average, the same nine or ten meals week in, week out. OK, there’s nothing wrong with having favorites, but it does everyone good to bust out once in a while; a change is good for the mind and soul, and the same applies to wines.
You’re not a “Shiraz drinker”, you just stick to Shiraz
Even wine lovers fall into these traps, describing themselves by their most-quaffed varietal: “I’m a Shiraz/Pinot Noir/Riesling drinker…”.
In a world that has almost 14,000 different types of grape, this is akin to madness! OK, no-one’s saying you have to try thatEstonian sweet white for research purposes (or for any purpose, in fact), but you could at least stray from your usual narrow path now and again. Once a month would introduce 12 new grapes to your palate and to your repertoire.
You could start expanding your horizons by trying out a new country, or a new varietal. Read a few reviews and pick out the most recommended ones. Visit a friendly winery – maybe one that supplies a lot of restaurants – and ask for hints.
Another way to broaden your outlook is to work out what attracts you to your favourite wines. For example, if you are a regular Pinot Grigio drinker, then you go for citrussy wines with a light, bright nature.
So, if bright and citrus is your bag, try a Sancerre once a month. What’s to lose? It’s a respected wine and you won’t go too far wrong.
If you’re that Shiraz drinker, then you like your reds with a lot of tannin, as well as blackberry with a bit of spicy olive oil thrown in. No problem; the next time you reach for your usual red, stop and pick up a Petite Sirah – you’ll have almost the same experience, but not quite.
Oh, and if you’re one of the people guilty of having the same meals on a constant cycle – you know what to do…
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January - Dry or Damp?
Yes, January is here, and will be for the next three weeks or so. Chances are you’re nursing a financial hangover, even if the physical one has receded, as well as carrying a few extra pounds around.
You’re not alone, which is why the Dry January phenomenon has caught on so well across the world. People join together, in person or online, to encourage and commiserate with each other as they face the challenges of paying off credit card bills and going without alcohol for an entire month.
You don’t have to go all out
If you’re a serious wine buff, or at least an enthusiast, this doesn’t mean that you have to cut it out completely. You don’t have to forgo your regular wine order and just buy cooking wines for your hearty winter stews instead. You can compromise.
Don’t go dry, go damp
This is the perfect halfway house for wine lovers. Have a look at the alcohol content in your usual choice and see if you can find a similar one with a lower percentage. Or, think of ways to dilute a favourite (not the favourite, you’re not a savage…). You could turn to spritzers for the month, or make sangria with extra OJ and no brandy. There’s always a way.
You might enjoy a regular Irish coffee or a couple of whisky shots when you visit the in-laws and tell yourself it doesn’t count; well it does! Think of those sneaky units and eliminate just those ones, leaving the wine well alone.
Set a price challenge
It’s not just about the health benefits when it comes to Dry January, there’s also the financial aspect of it. There’s two ways to approach this – you could tell yourself that instead of two bottles of $15.00 wine, you’ll enjoy one really good $25.00 bottle instead. You’ve just saved $10.00 and reduced your intake.
Alternatively, you could go to the other extreme and set a low price limit – you don’t go over $7.00. If you can’t find a decent plonk for less, you go without.
Go on, go damp!
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Can You Still Drink Corked Wine?
It’s something we all dread, wine drinkers, sellers and restaurateurs alike – corked wine. It’s a legitimate reason to send that expensive bottle right back and demand a new one, which hurts. It’s also a real let down if you open that long-awaited vintage only to get that weird whiff of…damp cellar, wet dog, mouldy newspaper…
There are a few things that result in so-called corked wine, but the main culprit is a pesky compound called 2,4,6-trichloroanisole, or TCA to its friends (which aren’t that great in number). TCA is created by fungi getting into the bottle somehow and reacting and interacting with the chlorophenols compounds present in the wine. Chlorophenols are compounds found in bleach, but thankfully they’re barely present in wine. However, when they meet certain fungi, they get up to mischief.
Interestingly enough, when you smell a corked wine, you’re not smelling the TCA at all! What’s actually happening is that the TCA is blocking some of your olfactory receptors and preventing them from picking up all the other amazing smells coming out of that bottle. The problem is that smell is a major part of the taste and enjoyment of wine, so…boo!
Usually the response to a corked wine is to send it back or to tip it down the sink – it’s not considered good enough to cook with, let alone drink (another subject for debate there…). But is it actively dangerous or foolhardy to drink corked wine?
Is TCA harmful?
Well, no. The safety data sheets used by chemical companies that handle TCA in its pure form say that direct, undiluted exposure to TCA can cause eye and skin irritation, as well as respiratory distress like wheezing or coughing. That’s not ideal, but this is when it’s pure. In a bottle of wine, TCA is measured in parts per trillion – that’s trillion, not million or billion – so even though it’s messing with your sense of smell, that’s as much as it can do to you.
You might have a reaction to a corked wine – wheezing, or a rash – but this is almost certainly going to be caused by something else in the wine, or by an allergy. TCA, while a nuisance to wine lovers, is not out to get anyone.
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A Golden Oldie – Sherry at Christmas
Sherry is making a comeback! Quite literally, too, if it’s being rescued from the back of the drinks cabinet in time for Aunt Maud’s annual Yuletide visit. You may wince at the prospect of pouring out a glass of sweet, sickly-coloured syrupy…stuff…for her, but you should forget your disdain for a moment and think about giving it a go this Christmas.
Here’s a rundown of what to try, when and with what, if you fancy a bit of retro with this year’s ho-ho-ho.
For salty nibbles and tapas
Try a Fino or a Manzanilla
This is light and dry and is made with a particular kind of yeast that comes from Andalucia in Spain. It has a very yeasty, bready-like aroma and is fresh and best served chilled. In fact, all sherries are best served chilled, but especially the lighter ones.
For rich meats and game birds (no, not Aunt Maud)
Try Oloroso. This sherry has been exposed to the air and so it’s oxidised, giving it a dark brown colour and a dry taste with overtones of spices, coffee, nuts and dried fruits.
For your cheese-board
You need a good all-rounder like an Amontillado. This is a cross (not literally) between the Fino and the Oloroso sherries. They still have the lightness, but with a bit of the nut/coffee/spice combo that the Oloroso has going on. They are typically dry, but you can find sweetened ones, usually labelled “medium”.
For desserts, cakes and other sweets
Try a cream sherry. Cream sherries can be any of the other styles, but they’ve been sweetened. Pale cream is usually a Fino, and cream is usually a sweetened Oloroso.
No guide to sherry would be complete without a nod to…
Pedro Ximenez
PX, as it’s known to its friends, is the godfather of sherry. It’s made from raisined grapes, so the flavors are more concentrated – molasses, nuts, toffee – and it’s also incredibly sweet. Pair it with chocolate or ice cream.
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